Skip the fancy restaurants

Avoid staying in major destinations like Manuel Antonio, Arenal, and Tamarindo, where prices tend to be between $100 to $200, at the minimum. Skip the fancy restaurants and head to roadside huts known as soadas, which are hugely important in Costa Rican culture. These family run restaurants serve typical Costa Rican cuisine for around $5, and it’s an epic plate of food with rice, salad, beans, and meat.

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For a more traditionally elegant meal, I slightly adapted a version of Marcella Hazan’s justifiably famous recipe for Spaghetti With White Clam Sauce. I made mine with linguine. I also had to cut back on the amount of clams, because clams aren’t cheap, and I substituted an onion for shallots, for the same reason.

Sometimes lunch is just good food, and sometimes it’s a window into a whole different world. I had no clue that the Palmer Boulevard Shell station included a full on restaurant, but based on the commotion there at lunchtime, I must have been the last to find out. The T Deli serves a huge range of food, with everything from fried chicken and burgers to burritos and egg rolls, and almost all the customers seem to know someone behind the counter.

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